Thursday, November 9, 2017

Pacuare Lodge

Another chaotic transfer from Aninga to Puerto Blanco, where our luggage was unceremoniously plonked once again in the mud, and where we had to retrieve it fom a precarious position just next to the river. A 30 minute wait followed whilst everyone scrambled for cover with suitcases in tow to the meagre shelter of a nearby restaurant.
Incidently the restaurant charged everyone $1USD to go to the toilet. After a 3 hour boat trip back to the port or a rough one and a half bumpy drive to the port, needless to say everyone needed to use the facilities. They made four dollars from us alone. There were signs everywhere around warning people not to go near the vegetation because of dangerous snakes! Make your own conclusions!!
Why were we waiting? Well it was a shuttle service! Bring 120 + people in and ship the other 120+ people out. Very cost effective no doubt, but hardly made the experience feel special.
Lunch was served, at the same restaurant as breakfast two days before, after the hour and a half bus drive back.
It was a tremendous relief to be collected in a 4X4 Toyota Landcruiser by Pacuare Lodge. One of the German tourists Ana, looked on with great envy as they were herded back onto another bus to collect their rent-a-car.
We believe that Ana would have been far less envious when she saw the dirt road that we took to get to the lodge! Our faces broadened with great smiles. Here was a road that really needed a four wheel drive. Very steep, narrow, with large boulders and ruts, much like the roads we drive on in the outback! This place was obviously seriously out of the way!
The car eventually stopped besides a rushing river, the Rio Pacuare.
No bridge!
Our driver spoke no English and spoke not a word to us all the way.
When we reached the river, the luggage was removed from the vehicle and placed in a basket attached to a rope. We were directed to get into the badket with the luggage and told not to touch the rope. With that we were suddenly being wisked across the river by two men pulling the rope with a pulley on the other side.
Here we were met by Willman, the manager of Pecuare Lodge, in an electric golf buggy. "Hello Peter and Sue, welcome to Pecuare."
Driving besides the river were well manicured lawns and beautiful vegetation - all indigenous to the local area.
The reception was in a wooden building with no walls, just open to the elements.
STUNNING!
Our room was a River Suite called Gavalan, named after a bird.

Outside and inside bathroom, with private balcony.

The personal touch in this lodge is exemplary. All the staff knew who we were and called us by name when introducing themselves. Extraordinary.

Even the water bottle in the bathroom had a welcome message.
Service even better. An eco lodge that prides itself on sustainability, Pecuare Lodge is listed by National Geographic as one of the "unique" lodges of the world.
We were scheduled to take a hike to the cascade the next day. Very steep and very slippery. Peter chose to take the short cut back. Good choice as there were three streams to cross over slippery, unstable rocks. Not helpful with a very painful knee.

Not an elegant photo. It was hot and steamy, so the very cold water was blussful. I was already so wet, getting wetter didn't seem to be such a bad choice. So jumped with clothes and all.
Before reaching the cascade, we passed the display indigenous hut. Local indugenous families still live like this higher up the mountain.

When we arrived back at the lodge, Willman had arranged to upgrade us to another cottage. Peter was diffident as we had to pack everything again. I thought it might be interesting. So we moved......

A private swimming pool with fresh spring water flowing through it. An inside/ outside bathroom with bath. Full verandah with hammock and recliner lounges. Full sitting room with chairs and sofa. Very decadent, luxurious and a deligtful way to enjoy a jungle setting. How lucky were we?

Bar upstairs, dining outside. At night all lit by candles.

It was with great reluctance that we had to leave this paradise.
One more piece of excitement......
We had to raft out on the Pecuare Ricer on class 111 and class 1V rapids. Wonderful experience, with great staff, delucious lunch and wonderous scenery.
No photos unfortunately. Too dangerous to take photos mid-rafting here and the wet/dry bag not good enough to withstand the soaking that we received. We spent 3 hours rafting plus time for lunch and a swim in the river.
At 2.30, we arrived at the Pecuare warehouse to dry off and get into dry clothing. Our driver was waiting to take us to Trogon Lodge near San Gerada de Dota.



Beautiful scenery on the way.

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