It is so peaceful and each campsite is discretely separated by a large expanse of bush. There are only 5 campsites and people only seem to stay if they really love the bush, the peace and serenity.
We ate really well here. Delma went crabbing one day and presented every campsite with a mud crab. We were given two! They were the biggest mud crabs I have ever seen! One we ate 'au natural', the other, 'ginger/chilli'. Peter caught a good-sized 'Skippie' or Skip Jack, similar to a Travally. We baked it in the hot coals with lemons tucked inside. We were also given a large hunk of Spanish Mackerel which we cooked just like a roast - again delicious! Some other folk went out with Grant on his charter boat and came back laden with more fish. This time we were given a large Snapper. What luxury to have such wonderfully fresh and delicious fish meals. Delma made a special satay sauce for us, which we ate with our Snapper. She is a wonderful cook! Her chill/ginger crab, which I was allowed to sample was exceptionally tasty!
On the beach was a lovely community sitting area under a large shady tree, where we spent the hottest part of the day nattering, reading and painting. It was bliss!
Broome was our next destination. It is a beautiful city, kept pristinely clean. Beautiful open parklands and tropical vegetation everywhere. It is the height of the tourist season at the moment, so although Cable Beach is magnificent it didn't appeal to us at this time. It was very crowded and smelled like the beach at Waikiki - coconut oil! Roebuck Bay is also beautiful with a very well designed water park for the children - again very crowded. We would like to visit Broome again, but when there are fewer people.
It is so busy that all of the caravan parks and accommodation is booked out for more than a year in advance! We were forced to stay in what is referred to as an "overflow" park. It was on the oval of the PCYC (Police, Citizen and Youth Club). Everyone is packed in like sardines! We were asked how long we wanted to stay and when we said, "Just one night", the volunteers replied, "Oh, you'll want to stay longer, everyone loves here!" It must be the old pioneer wagoneers mentality, where you only feel safe when you are placed in a tight circle!
Off to Derby today, ready for our cruise!
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Across the Tanami and into WA
We had been given horror stories about Alice Springs, but were very pleasantly surprised to find a very clean city, with beautifully kept public gardens. There was a very high police presence. The "mounted police", on bicycles, pedaling around all the malls and back allies. Other police with horses and in vehicles. We only saw one drunk in the public garden outside the library. Public toilets were all manned. They were free, but you could pay for a hot shower - $3.50, or $6.50 for a hot shower plus towel and soap. Security is an obvious priority. We saw security guards around all the supermarkets, checking car parking and entrances to shops. Peter went to the bottle shop and was not allowed to purchase anything without having his photo identity - ie licence checked and scanned through a machine to ensure he wasn't one of the banned drinkers!
We needed to jettison the water from our tank as it had become badly tainted! It took some time. The service station allowed us to refill, which was a godsend! So we left Alice Springs quite late. The first part of the Tamani Road was a single strip of tar, which went as far as Tilmouth Well. We have been constantly reminded of the remote areas of Kenya on this trip. Some areas have looked like the journey to Voi, and now we are on a road that is reminiscent of the old Mombasa road - red dirt, steep sides and very corrugated. We stopped at Tilmouth Well, a beautifully maintained establishment at the start of the gravel road. It had the feel of an elegant old safari lodge, with local stone pavers and cool shelters made from local tree trunks with thatch roofs, green lawns and the local creek just at the edge of the property. It would be a great place to stay!
Last night we camped beside Floodout Creek. No one here at all! So Laurance, I think we might have reached "woop woop"! We are in the middle of the Tanami Desert, we were visited last night by a wild dingo and had a herd of wild camels scampering past our camp. There is no sign of habitation anywhere and the closest place to us now is about 560klms away! The air is clean, dry and cold at night. Wild birds abound around us, crested doves, huge variety of finches and other acacia seed loving birds. We used to camp oven last night to cook up all our vegetables before we reach the Western Australian border where no fruit or vegetables are allowed in.
We continued on the Tanami Road, which was dry and not too bad until about 50 klms to the WA border. Then the potholes and corrugations were enough to shake not only the fillings out of your teeth, but the car chassis to bits. The metal holders for our PVC pipe were literally rattled to pieces and we had to use strapping to fix the damage.
The Tanami Road at this point, resembled a deep channel graded through the red earth and sand. So there was no way of getting off unless you found a road or track leading to some remote station or community. We were unable to drive faster than first or second gear, so every kilometer seemed to drag by. We still hadn't found a spot to pull off for the night by 6.00 pm, so were starting to get quite worried. The corrugations had really got to Sue by this stage, who was hanging onto the steering wheel with all her might. The light was fading and the ruts became impossible to see with the sun setting right in front of us. Soon we were into the last bit of daylight. Suddenly Peter saw a very faint set of tyre tracks leading off into the scrub and we headed onto it. We found it had been used only once as a route to taking geological samples for mineral exploration as we found some small round plugs of stone with a marker besides them on the track. There was just enough room for us to set up the camper for the night and far enough into the scrub for no one to see us there. The scrub was very thick and theme met grasses well over head height, lots of magnificent wildflowers all around. The stars are truly at their best way out here. The Milky Way shows it's "clouds" of stars that are never visible in suburban areas. Daybreak was magnificent with the most amazing sunrise and chorus of birds. Light was shining on all the desert flowers!
Today we travelled to Billilluna, only meeting one other vehicle on the Tanami Road all day - an off road tourist camper bus. The road improved somewhat, but still we met with deep sandy patches and rocky outcrops, all made to test the vehicle and driver! Billuna is a "dry" Aboriginal community where we stopped to refuel. At $2.60 a litre, needless to say we bought a minimal amount. Billilluna is also the beginning and/or ending of the Canning Stock Route. Sue went into the community store to buy some drinks. The queue, which snaked inside the shop was 20 people deep, so she chatted to all the local kids and their parents. Some of the children went to boarding school in Perth! After year 7 they have to go elsewhere to learn. They had to fly to Perth because of the extreme distances. One child told me his sister had been expelled because she had been teasing another Aboriginal student there. Anyway the Aboriginal people here seem all very friendly and happy. All look well and were purchasing sensible things to eat. The Variety of fresh goods in the store was remarkable. Apparently it's even better when the truck arrives! There was a good feel to the place. And at least around the general store and office, was very clean and tidy. One elderly Aborigine makes it his business to clean up every morning, so the managers were very grateful.
Sue met some people who had just finished traveling down the Canning Stock Route, who told her about their lovely stay at Stretch Lake, a lake within the Paruka Indigenous Area. You need permission to enter, obtainable from the community store/office/petrol station. We are restricted as to where we can visit, but the lake is allowed. Anyway here we are beside Lake Stretch. We have both had a swim in it, a hot shower (bush style) afterwards, washed the clothes, and had dinner.
This is beautiful! A long stretch of lake, abundant with water birds and other birdlife. There are two other camps besides us, with ample space between, so we feel like we are here alone.
We liked it so much we stayed for two nights. On Sunday the community manager, Arthur (Dutch) came down to the lake to show the new replacement managers this serene and peaceful place. The new managers were Yarpies, (South Africans), who had only lived in Australia for 4 years, but who had lived most of their lives in Namibia. The job of running one of the Indigenous Communities is massive. It will be their task to make sure that the ranch and community become self sufficient - a very hard ask given that most inhabitants don't want to do anything. They had a few different ideas about running the place, so it will be interesting to see how they fare. Arthur told us the ranch was capable of making at least $1m per annum, because of the abundant permanent water.
We went back to the office on Monday to pay our extra money for staying the extra day. Inside the community centre were Indigenous artworks, some a part of a heritage collection. Many different fruit trees had been planted around the community centre and all were thriving thanks to the daily watering given by the manager's wife.
Back on the Tanami Road! Bone shaking rattling, but still better that the 50klms before the WA border.
We arrived in Halls Creek, expecting to find a dump of a town. But instead it was clean, green, tidy and well organized. Very strict liquor laws are in place in the town, the liquor store being able sell only a maximum 2.8percent, ie light beer and nothing else. We were desperate for a meal, and visited the local pub - The Kimberly Hotel. A really lovely place, reminiscent of Voi when you leave the desert to pull in for a break. Sparkling pool, shady and green with cool verandahs and mango beer on tap! Very tasty and thirst quenching. Again not able to purchase spirits or wine, unless between the hours of 5 - 8pm And it had to be consumed on the premises, nothing could be taken away. We are told these liquor laws hold true for most of the towns in the Kimberly except for Derby!
Last night was spent at Larrawa Station Bush Camping. This property is a working station of 120,000 hectares, with 5,000 head of cattle, on very marginal land. There is a creek that runs through the property, but flows only in the " Big Wet", but had two water holes still left from the huge rains this area has just had! The owner thought it was therefore still flowing under the sand. This is a very peaceful place, no one here but us, some cows and horses and the farm house dog, Daisy.
The station hands were all girls and packed their swags at 5.30am and loaded the horses ready for another muster to collect the strays that had been missed in the first round up. It was going to take them 11/2 hours by truck to get to the other side of the property, where they would sleep out under the stars in their swags.
We sought the advise of Priceless Campsites for our next stop, which turned out to be Lake Ellendale. Thanks to the station owners this campsite is free on the understanding that rubbish in is rubbish taken out. No facilities but clean with a small fresh water lake. About ten others camping there at the same time. We moved to the furtherest end of the lake, so were pretty secluded compared to the others. We still has "absolute" water frontage. The paddock was filled with cows who were obviously quite used to many visitors.
Here we met a most interesting character, Neil, who up has been "on the road" for the past fifteen years. He could talk the "the hind leg off a donkey"! He lives from pension cheque to pension cheque. How far he travels depends on how much fuel he can afford to buy. He was very knowledgeable, especially in regards to engines and vehicles. As he travels, he helps out other travelers who have car problems, as a good Samaritan. He is a qualified mechanic, panel, beater and spray painter. He had owned his own business, restoring vintage cars, but had broken his back losing three discs in a very unfortunate accident. He had been unable to get compensation, so as a result couldn't continue running his own business or get a job.
We offered to share our meal with him, which happened to be curry. He declined saying he had had a bad experience with curry when working in the kitchen at Long Bay (jail). We didn't ask, " As an inmate or employee"!
It was shortly before Ellendale Lake that we spotted our first boabs!
We have been shocked by the gung-ho approach by the off-road four wheel drivers. They drive too fast and try to be as dirty as possible either with mud or dust. So we have seen many camper trailers destroyed by the corrugated road conditions. On the other hand if you have stopped by the side of the road they always stop to check that you are ok. The truck drivers are courteous and very well behaved!
We needed to jettison the water from our tank as it had become badly tainted! It took some time. The service station allowed us to refill, which was a godsend! So we left Alice Springs quite late. The first part of the Tamani Road was a single strip of tar, which went as far as Tilmouth Well. We have been constantly reminded of the remote areas of Kenya on this trip. Some areas have looked like the journey to Voi, and now we are on a road that is reminiscent of the old Mombasa road - red dirt, steep sides and very corrugated. We stopped at Tilmouth Well, a beautifully maintained establishment at the start of the gravel road. It had the feel of an elegant old safari lodge, with local stone pavers and cool shelters made from local tree trunks with thatch roofs, green lawns and the local creek just at the edge of the property. It would be a great place to stay!
Last night we camped beside Floodout Creek. No one here at all! So Laurance, I think we might have reached "woop woop"! We are in the middle of the Tanami Desert, we were visited last night by a wild dingo and had a herd of wild camels scampering past our camp. There is no sign of habitation anywhere and the closest place to us now is about 560klms away! The air is clean, dry and cold at night. Wild birds abound around us, crested doves, huge variety of finches and other acacia seed loving birds. We used to camp oven last night to cook up all our vegetables before we reach the Western Australian border where no fruit or vegetables are allowed in.
We continued on the Tanami Road, which was dry and not too bad until about 50 klms to the WA border. Then the potholes and corrugations were enough to shake not only the fillings out of your teeth, but the car chassis to bits. The metal holders for our PVC pipe were literally rattled to pieces and we had to use strapping to fix the damage.
The Tanami Road at this point, resembled a deep channel graded through the red earth and sand. So there was no way of getting off unless you found a road or track leading to some remote station or community. We were unable to drive faster than first or second gear, so every kilometer seemed to drag by. We still hadn't found a spot to pull off for the night by 6.00 pm, so were starting to get quite worried. The corrugations had really got to Sue by this stage, who was hanging onto the steering wheel with all her might. The light was fading and the ruts became impossible to see with the sun setting right in front of us. Soon we were into the last bit of daylight. Suddenly Peter saw a very faint set of tyre tracks leading off into the scrub and we headed onto it. We found it had been used only once as a route to taking geological samples for mineral exploration as we found some small round plugs of stone with a marker besides them on the track. There was just enough room for us to set up the camper for the night and far enough into the scrub for no one to see us there. The scrub was very thick and theme met grasses well over head height, lots of magnificent wildflowers all around. The stars are truly at their best way out here. The Milky Way shows it's "clouds" of stars that are never visible in suburban areas. Daybreak was magnificent with the most amazing sunrise and chorus of birds. Light was shining on all the desert flowers!
Today we travelled to Billilluna, only meeting one other vehicle on the Tanami Road all day - an off road tourist camper bus. The road improved somewhat, but still we met with deep sandy patches and rocky outcrops, all made to test the vehicle and driver! Billuna is a "dry" Aboriginal community where we stopped to refuel. At $2.60 a litre, needless to say we bought a minimal amount. Billilluna is also the beginning and/or ending of the Canning Stock Route. Sue went into the community store to buy some drinks. The queue, which snaked inside the shop was 20 people deep, so she chatted to all the local kids and their parents. Some of the children went to boarding school in Perth! After year 7 they have to go elsewhere to learn. They had to fly to Perth because of the extreme distances. One child told me his sister had been expelled because she had been teasing another Aboriginal student there. Anyway the Aboriginal people here seem all very friendly and happy. All look well and were purchasing sensible things to eat. The Variety of fresh goods in the store was remarkable. Apparently it's even better when the truck arrives! There was a good feel to the place. And at least around the general store and office, was very clean and tidy. One elderly Aborigine makes it his business to clean up every morning, so the managers were very grateful.
Sue met some people who had just finished traveling down the Canning Stock Route, who told her about their lovely stay at Stretch Lake, a lake within the Paruka Indigenous Area. You need permission to enter, obtainable from the community store/office/petrol station. We are restricted as to where we can visit, but the lake is allowed. Anyway here we are beside Lake Stretch. We have both had a swim in it, a hot shower (bush style) afterwards, washed the clothes, and had dinner.
This is beautiful! A long stretch of lake, abundant with water birds and other birdlife. There are two other camps besides us, with ample space between, so we feel like we are here alone.
We liked it so much we stayed for two nights. On Sunday the community manager, Arthur (Dutch) came down to the lake to show the new replacement managers this serene and peaceful place. The new managers were Yarpies, (South Africans), who had only lived in Australia for 4 years, but who had lived most of their lives in Namibia. The job of running one of the Indigenous Communities is massive. It will be their task to make sure that the ranch and community become self sufficient - a very hard ask given that most inhabitants don't want to do anything. They had a few different ideas about running the place, so it will be interesting to see how they fare. Arthur told us the ranch was capable of making at least $1m per annum, because of the abundant permanent water.
We went back to the office on Monday to pay our extra money for staying the extra day. Inside the community centre were Indigenous artworks, some a part of a heritage collection. Many different fruit trees had been planted around the community centre and all were thriving thanks to the daily watering given by the manager's wife.
Back on the Tanami Road! Bone shaking rattling, but still better that the 50klms before the WA border.
We arrived in Halls Creek, expecting to find a dump of a town. But instead it was clean, green, tidy and well organized. Very strict liquor laws are in place in the town, the liquor store being able sell only a maximum 2.8percent, ie light beer and nothing else. We were desperate for a meal, and visited the local pub - The Kimberly Hotel. A really lovely place, reminiscent of Voi when you leave the desert to pull in for a break. Sparkling pool, shady and green with cool verandahs and mango beer on tap! Very tasty and thirst quenching. Again not able to purchase spirits or wine, unless between the hours of 5 - 8pm And it had to be consumed on the premises, nothing could be taken away. We are told these liquor laws hold true for most of the towns in the Kimberly except for Derby!
Last night was spent at Larrawa Station Bush Camping. This property is a working station of 120,000 hectares, with 5,000 head of cattle, on very marginal land. There is a creek that runs through the property, but flows only in the " Big Wet", but had two water holes still left from the huge rains this area has just had! The owner thought it was therefore still flowing under the sand. This is a very peaceful place, no one here but us, some cows and horses and the farm house dog, Daisy.
The station hands were all girls and packed their swags at 5.30am and loaded the horses ready for another muster to collect the strays that had been missed in the first round up. It was going to take them 11/2 hours by truck to get to the other side of the property, where they would sleep out under the stars in their swags.
We sought the advise of Priceless Campsites for our next stop, which turned out to be Lake Ellendale. Thanks to the station owners this campsite is free on the understanding that rubbish in is rubbish taken out. No facilities but clean with a small fresh water lake. About ten others camping there at the same time. We moved to the furtherest end of the lake, so were pretty secluded compared to the others. We still has "absolute" water frontage. The paddock was filled with cows who were obviously quite used to many visitors.
Here we met a most interesting character, Neil, who up has been "on the road" for the past fifteen years. He could talk the "the hind leg off a donkey"! He lives from pension cheque to pension cheque. How far he travels depends on how much fuel he can afford to buy. He was very knowledgeable, especially in regards to engines and vehicles. As he travels, he helps out other travelers who have car problems, as a good Samaritan. He is a qualified mechanic, panel, beater and spray painter. He had owned his own business, restoring vintage cars, but had broken his back losing three discs in a very unfortunate accident. He had been unable to get compensation, so as a result couldn't continue running his own business or get a job.
We offered to share our meal with him, which happened to be curry. He declined saying he had had a bad experience with curry when working in the kitchen at Long Bay (jail). We didn't ask, " As an inmate or employee"!
It was shortly before Ellendale Lake that we spotted our first boabs!
We have been shocked by the gung-ho approach by the off-road four wheel drivers. They drive too fast and try to be as dirty as possible either with mud or dust. So we have seen many camper trailers destroyed by the corrugated road conditions. On the other hand if you have stopped by the side of the road they always stop to check that you are ok. The truck drivers are courteous and very well behaved!
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Survival kit
Thanks to Mal and Kel Cole for the fabulous survival kit. Been invaluable ! On the drive to Malacoota, we lit the eco billy for a cup of tea at Numerella to have with one of the home made meusli bars I had made ready for the trip. You guessed it - I had left them in the deepfreeze at home. So out came the packet of hazelnut biscuits. After the first night we lost the firelighter, so the matches were used. Next after a VERY cold night at Port Pirie -out came the "gin and tonic". Another cold night later and the Scotch was attacked. So many many thanks, Kel, we are really appreciating you wonderfully kind gift!
Keeping in touch
This is a message for Mum and maybe anyone else. we can't get messages sent through the blog site, but we can read comments in the comments section.
Desert Oak Ranch
We drove out of Kata Tjuta National Park after our big walk yesterday, meaning to camp at the meteorite craters. But it got too late, so we reluctantly pulled into Desert Oak Ranch. It turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. Everything was spotless and very well maintained - great showers and green grass!
Today we will stay in Alice Springs in a motel, we think! Time to wash clothes, air damp bedding etc. We need more provisions and a bit of a break.
Yep!,,, a motel! It took almost 2 hours to remove the mud from the vehicle -well almost all of the mud! Then we refilled with provisions and purchased 2new drink bottles. We had managed to puncture both our other ones. How we have no idea!
Dinner at the local club was too much!!!! GIANT sized schnitzel built for a Titan -Far too much for me! We assured that we could go back for more salad. No way - filled to the brim after only 1/3 of the meal!
We will now be out of touch for some time as we start our travel down the Tanemi Tack tomorrow.
Today we will stay in Alice Springs in a motel, we think! Time to wash clothes, air damp bedding etc. We need more provisions and a bit of a break.
Yep!,,, a motel! It took almost 2 hours to remove the mud from the vehicle -well almost all of the mud! Then we refilled with provisions and purchased 2new drink bottles. We had managed to puncture both our other ones. How we have no idea!
Dinner at the local club was too much!!!! GIANT sized schnitzel built for a Titan -Far too much for me! We assured that we could go back for more salad. No way - filled to the brim after only 1/3 of the meal!
We will now be out of touch for some time as we start our travel down the Tanemi Tack tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Desert Oak Ranch
Feeling very tired tonight after an arduous (for us) walk around Kata Tjuta, (the Olgas). This walk is even more special and spectacular than walking around Uluru. Amazing water courses, pools and vegetation. Again the wild flowers and birdlife were magnificent. The path was difficult in places because our shoes did not have adequate grips on the undersides.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Cadney Park Roadhouse
Stayed the night in the paddock beside the roadhouse. We were the only people in the paddock, so we had a wonderful campfire that night and cooked our first lot of jaffles for the trip! We are really enjoying our camper. It is warm and cosy in it at night and packs away relatively quickly! Sue has nearly mastered the gas stove!
Stuart Highway long and tedious! Not too much traffic however. Some 50kms from Coober Pedy, we drove past hectares and hectares of water. It looked like a swamp. But here we were in the middle of the desert!
We turned off the main highway towards Uluru and stayed the next night at Curtin Springs Homestead - again in the paddock.
Uluru
Yesterday we drove into Kata Tjuta National Park to visit Uluru and the Olgas. This park is spectacular especially with all the rain that's been had. Wildflowers in abundance and a beautiful light pervading perfume. We have been lucky enough to spot a Thorny Devil as well as two small herds of wild camels.
We didn't climb the rock but walked around it instead. A most magnificent walk with amazing rock formations and natural sculptures. Again plenty of water everywhere, so the base of the rock had small streams, ponds and waterholes. Beautiful tall trees and very lush vegetation.
Later we headed to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) and walked the Walpa Gorge. More spectacular than Uluru, in our minds and certainly a very spiritual place! Serene and beautiful with magnificent small birds enjoying the abundance of food. Along the way I told a man that there were some beautiful yellow birds at the top of the gorge. He said "Oh they'll be ........ " so the I asked what the small birds were with bright red beaks. "Zebra Finches", came the quick reply. "How did you know he was a 'twitter'? asked Peter. It wasn't half obvious- he had dangling from his neck the largest pair of binoculars I have ever seen and a camera with a telephoto lens that was at least 45cms long!
Stuart Highway long and tedious! Not too much traffic however. Some 50kms from Coober Pedy, we drove past hectares and hectares of water. It looked like a swamp. But here we were in the middle of the desert!
We turned off the main highway towards Uluru and stayed the next night at Curtin Springs Homestead - again in the paddock.
Uluru
Yesterday we drove into Kata Tjuta National Park to visit Uluru and the Olgas. This park is spectacular especially with all the rain that's been had. Wildflowers in abundance and a beautiful light pervading perfume. We have been lucky enough to spot a Thorny Devil as well as two small herds of wild camels.
We didn't climb the rock but walked around it instead. A most magnificent walk with amazing rock formations and natural sculptures. Again plenty of water everywhere, so the base of the rock had small streams, ponds and waterholes. Beautiful tall trees and very lush vegetation.
Later we headed to Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) and walked the Walpa Gorge. More spectacular than Uluru, in our minds and certainly a very spiritual place! Serene and beautiful with magnificent small birds enjoying the abundance of food. Along the way I told a man that there were some beautiful yellow birds at the top of the gorge. He said "Oh they'll be ........ " so the I asked what the small birds were with bright red beaks. "Zebra Finches", came the quick reply. "How did you know he was a 'twitter'? asked Peter. It wasn't half obvious- he had dangling from his neck the largest pair of binoculars I have ever seen and a camera with a telephoto lens that was at least 45cms long!
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